Day 1 Saint Nazaire to Nantes - 62 km
View Day One - 63 Km's in a larger map
We left at 7AM. We probably could have left at 5AM, as we all slept badly.
The bridge was no problem, apart from the long pedal to the top. The traffic was very light, and there was not a lot of wind. We stopped for photos and a look around at the top of the bridge (one advantage of being on a bike) - the view was fantastic. It didn't take much imagination to see how dangerous the bridge could be in adverse conditions.
Once off the bridge, we pedalled effortlessly along small country roads and back lanes, very peaceful riding with very little traffic. About 8AM we found a small bar/cafe open, placed our orders for coffee, wandered 30 metres down the street and bought croissants. If only the cafes were so well placed every day!
The Loire, near the mouth, is tidal with wide mud flats, so we were actually riding quite a way from the river itself for a time, along a large canal heading for Bac,. There was virtually no traffic and the countryside was very picturesque.
After a short coffee break at Bac, we left for our final leg to Nantes. It started to rain - "not much in it", said Des. "No need to stop and put on jackets". We discovered later that Des didn't have a rain jacket!!!!!! The rain, light at first, gradually became heavier and it rained all the way into Nantes.
The bike paths were very well sign posted, which was fortunate, as the maps that I created didn't like the rain at all. Even the provisional bike paths were well signed. The Loire Valley bike paths consist of fully developed 'bike only' paths (sealed or gravel), plus a mix of lightly travelled country roads and lanes. In many places, the final route has not been decided, but provisional routes are in place and signed - very easy to work with and the accompanying maps are excellent. But you do need to be on the ball, as we still managed to miss signs on several occasions.
As we approached Nantes, the rain was heavy and unrelenting, and we managed to miss a sign, ending up totally lost, cold and wet, on the side of a very busy dual carriage road. Exiting the highway, we managed to find our way back with not too much difficulty, ending up in suburbia with plenty of marked bike paths on moderately busy roads heading into Nantes. The rain was still coming down. We had a little spot of trouble about here - Ken was forced off his bike in a roundabout by a car driver, and at the same time, I did a barrel roll right in front of a hairdressing salon (misjudged the depth of an overflowing gutter). As I picked myself up, Ken appeared from the bushes on the side of the roundabout with blood flowing from his knee and arm. Despite appearances, not too much damage done. Ken's wounds were fortunately just flesh wounds, and I strained my shoulder a bit.
We regrouped and set off again. After a short stint going the wrong way, we eventually picked up the bike path and cycled into town to our hotel (11:45AM) - we had been given very good directions (to our hotel) from a monsieur who was intrigued by these silly Aussies riding in the rain.
Our rooms were not immediately available, so we waited around in our wet gear for about 40 minutes - very wet and dirty and Ken bleeding all over the floor.
Had a very uninteresting lunch and went for a walk around Nantes. The centre of town has been re vamped, with new trams and lots of pedestrian walks. It reminded me of Montpelier.
We caught up with Nicolas at the bike shop, and he agreed to call into the hotel on his way home from work to fix a couple of problems on Ken's bike that resulted from his fall. Thanks Nicolas for going out of your way to help, much appreciated.
We had a couple of beers at a bar before dinner and were castigated for not speaking French by the barman - he then chatted to us for some time in better than average English.
Thanks Brian for the restaurant recommendation (Le Cigale) - the sea bass was stunning.
A little time to attend to the now drying washing and into bed - what a great day!
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